5/03/2007

Sarah, it's 10 to 8! (DMZ Tour)

Having planned every other part of our vacation, today was the first actual tour we were to take.

After waking up at "4:30am", I rolled over for some additional sleep, as we didn't have to leave the hostel until 7:00am, to catch the subway across the city, for our tour departure at 8:00am. At the time I felt like I had had enough sleep and should go down to the computers to update the blog, but decided otherwise. I eventually got up at "6:00am" to get ready and went downstairs to use the internet while Sarah got ready. I passed the grandfather clock in the lobby, which showed the time to be 7:50am, instead of "6:40am", thinking that the clock was not working properly I logged onto a computer, which confirmed the time of 7:50am. I raced up stairs and startled Sarah with the news. Having spent 200,000 Won ($250 CAN) on the tour, we freaked. It appears that Sarah's watch (my watch died back in Tokyo), had lost 1 hour and 10 minutes, somehow. We had caught buses at the correct time back in Sokcho, so it happened sometime between Tuesday evening and Thursday morning.

With wet hair and no makeup, Sarah quickly got dressed and made a phone call to the tour company to inform them that we'd missed our pickup. She was able to find out of another pick-up point, so we hailed a taxi on the street and took off. Sarah had to make another call to the tour company from the taxi driver's cell, as the driver didn't understand the name of the hotel and location, as Sarah stated it. Luckily, the second pick-up point was actually closer for us and the taxi only cost us 4000 Won. With time to spare, Sarah went into the ladies restroom to dry her hair and apply some makeup. Sarah couldn't get a break though, as she was ushered out after a few minutes, as three gentlemen in suits put up a red rope and swept both restrooms. It was unclear, but it seemed as though someone important was going to be coming down to use one of them. Considering this hotel had an indoor golf course, it is possible it was someone of high stature.

Unsure if we were on our originally planned tour or a substitute because of our screw up, we went for the 60km ride north to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone).

The tour proceeded with a three security/passport checks by the ROK (Republic of Korea) military, in order to visit the Camp Bonifas for a briefing and then the JSA (Joint Security Area) where the Demarcation Line separating the two countries is. Unfortunately, as there was a tour on the North Korean side (which happens rather infrequently, 1:15 ratio), so we were unable to go into the conference room, that allows visitors to cross over to the other side. We then went up to a lookout point that allows you to see the Propaganda Village that has been set up on the north side, but of course it was foggy. Being disappointed with the lack of pictures were allowed to take on the tour, we picked up some postcards at the souvenir shop and the photo album (3 group shots) that were taken during the tour.

We were under the impression that we were on the half day tour, as it was indicated that after lunch the tour would be heading back to Seoul, luckily however our English tour guide, pulled us aside and indicated that we'd be joining another group, to go view the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, the Dora Observatory and the Dorasan Railroad.

The 3rd Tunnel was discovered in 1978 with the assistance of the tunnel engineer who had defected from the north. The decent into the tunnel was very steep and made for a great workout on the way out. The majority of the tunnel was under 6' tall, so the hard hat came in handy, as I knocked my head off of the tunnel several times. Sarah didn't have the same experience. Of note, this is the tallest, but shortest of the 4 tunnels discovered to date. It has been developed as an south "propaganda" site, which South Koreans can visit. The South Koreans must apply to visit the JSA, which can take up to one year to process. The Dora Observatory was supposed to provide another vantage point for viewing the North Propaganda Village, but it was still foggy. The final stop within the secured area was the last train station in South Korea, which was connected to the north in 2000. Unfortunately the North declined to allow the railway to open, so it is basically a new unused train station.

On our way back to the bus, I snapped off a shot of the Dora Observatory. We were quickly confronted by a soldier, who required me to delete the picture. Our tour guide was surprised by the request, but none the less I complied. The tour concluded in Seoul with a stop over at an Amethyst dealer, a popular stop for the Japanese tourists.

We spent the evening eating and I-shopping (window shopping) in Insadong.

5/01/2007

Puttering around Seoul

It was raining and foggy in the mountains, as we left the Sorak Park Hotel and made our way into town to catch a bus back to Seoul. The taxi driver dropped us off at a different bus terminal than the one we arrived at, but thankfully it had bus leaving for the city.

Young Sun, Sarah's friend from Suwon, was wanting to come into Seoul for the day to meet us again, so Sarah gave her a call before we got on the bus and let her know where and when we'd be arriving.

The bus had a talent/variety show, called Star King, on which captured our attention for the first while of our 3 1/2 hour bus trip. I took a couple pictures of this one contortionist they had on, you'll have to see the pictures to believe what she can do. We then caught up on some sleep.

Arriving in Seoul, we noticed that we were not coming in the same direction that we left. We arrived in a totally different bus terminal, than expected. After tracking down an elusive pay phone, Sara called Young Sun on her cell phone to tell her were we were. Luckily with the great subway system here, we were quickly able to meet up at Dongdaemun Stadium, one of the stadiums used during the 2002 World Cup.

We quickly visited the Heung-Injimun (Dongdaemun) Gate, which is undergoing restoration. Walked over the much talked about revitalized Cheonggyecheon River, which at one time was covered by concrete.

We then went i-shopping (window shopping) at the Migliore complex, where they see how many retailers they can stuff into a building. On the top floor food court, I was shocked to see that the soccer stadium had been paved over inside and had become a flea market. Again, you'll have to see the pictures. Oh Korea!

After some lunch, we made our way to Namdaemun Market for some souvenir shopping.

After a tearful goodbye between distant friends on the subway, we checked back into the Holiday In Korea hostel for three more nights.

We were then off again to meet up with one of Sarah's former students, Jane.

Having not seen her in ten years, we left it up to Jane to spot us in the crowd at the subway stop. The ladies chatted as we made our way back to Myeong-dong for dinner. Jane took us to one of the best dumpling restaurants in Seoul, which we would have passed by, as it looked like any other restaurant in the area. The dumplings were great!

As Spider-Man 3 opened today (opens in North America May 4th), I was lucky enough to convince Sarah to go see it! However, in Korea movie tickets are sold by assigned seats, unbeknownst to us. Luckily Jane was still with us when we purchased the tickets and was able to get us the last two seats together for the showing. It's a Spider-Man movie, so the acting is only par and some of the scenes were a little too comicy, but I got to see it before you guys! :)

4/26/2007

Gyeongju

Update to follow shortly!

4/25/2007

4/24/2007

To the Hells!

As we were unable to take yesterday as a lazy day, today started out later than usual (11am).

Having been in the city once with Stacey, I knew that Beppu was famous for its onsens (hot spring baths), but having done that yesterday, we were looking for something else to do.

Sarah had read some unflattering reviews about the Jigoku Meguri (The Hells Tour), but as that appeared to be the only other real attraction to see, we grabbed a bus and headed for the Kannawa Area.

In order to attract more tourists, some of the Hells have added exploitive themes, such as aquariums, zoos and tacky statues. This exploitation was the reason for many of the poor reviews. But when you only have a few hours before your next train, tacky and explotive work!

We began our tour at Shiraike-Jigoku (White Pond Hell) which had the strongest Sulphur smell to it. This is could also be known as the Fish Hell, as its added theme was some aquariums containing Purana and other fish.

Next was the Oniyama-Jigoku, where the forced steam from the spring is enough to pull 1 1/2 train cars. This Hell is also the "happy" home of a variety of alligators and crocodiles. Yeah they were happy alright.

Kamado-Jigoku provided a red demon mascot for pictures and a hot footbath for our tired feet.

The confined and poorly kept animals at Yama-Jigoku, over shadowed the actual beauty of the Jigoku. We caught the lone elephant swaying back and forth, dancing for snacks from visitors. This was the most disturbing Hell we visited.

On the other hand, Umi-Jigoku was the nicest Hell. The 200 meter deep cobalt-blue boiling pond was surrounded by blooming gardens and had a small shrine off to the side.

The final stop on our walking tour (6 of 8 Hells) was at the the bubbling gray mud ponds of Oniishibozu-Jigoku.

With a couple of hours until the train, we decide to make our way down from the Hells to the Hyoutan Onsen for a sand bath. After a brief detour (ok we missed the unmarked street, we were supposed to turn down), we arrived at the onsen, deserving of a hot bath. The sand baths are uni-sex, so Sarah and I were able to muddle through it together. Thankfully we were alone. For the uneducated, a sand bath consists of digging pit deep enough into the sand, in order to cover yourself from neck to toe with very warm/hot sand. After that 15 minute experience and a vigorous shack down, we split up for a regular bath, outside while it began to shower.

The train from Beppu to Fukouka/Hakata was only three cars long and of course the car we were assigned to had a heating issue. After a half hour nap, I woke up soaked. Unbearable, I eventually was able to communicate with the conductor and he made an adjustment, however I spent the majority of the trip in another car.

The Japanese Ryokan Kashima Honkan, a traditonal Japanese hotel, was a welcome change for our last evening in Japan.

4/23/2007

Dogo Onsen

Today we decided was going to be a lazy day. We were wanting to just lounge around the spacious hostel, catch up on uploading pictures and updating the blog. Unfortunately, everyone is kicked out of the hostel at 10am, no matter if you are staying another night or not. So although, I`ve caught up on the blog entries, our pictures are only up to us passing Mt. Fuji on the bullet train.

We however made the best of the situation and found some 500 Yen lockers to dump our packs in. Although we found the English translations the best here in Matsuyama, coming across English is hard to come by, especially in the restaurants. We ended up having to take our server to the front window plastic food displays for both our breakfast and lunch.

We also took a bath in the Dogo Onsen, Sarah`s first experience in a public bath. We both survived, with only one of us giving a show to someone of the opposite sex.

Fully relaxed from the hot bath, we boarded the JR for Yawatahama which passed through a couple of the towns Stacey frequented when she was on the island teaching English. At the port we grabbed the ferry bound for Beppu. As we were deboarding after the 2 1/2 hour ride, Sarah struck up an English conversation with a Japanese woman, who was nice enough to offer us a ride to the Beppu Station, just a couple of blocks from where we were staying. The woman must have seen our Canada flag luggage tags, as she mentioned that she had visited Vancouver and Banff a few years ago.

Luckily we didn`t have her drop us off here at the Beppu Guest House, as it is the most rundown accommodations we`ve stayed at.

I can`t upload any new pictures on this stop, as the sole computer is running Windows 98 and it doesn`t support our USB SD Card Reader. Oh well. At least I`m now caught up on the blogs.

4/22/2007

Peace Memorial Park

Fittingly it rained as we solemnly toured the many memorials and statues lined throughout the Peace Memorial Park.

The Peace Memorial Museum clearly illustrated how devastating and resilient mankind can be.

After lunch, we split up for two hours, while I took a journey across the city to visit the Hiroshima Manga Library and Sarah shopped along the covered Hondori Street. The Library was something again, that I didn`t have time to visit on my last trip. Instead, I chose to visit the Hiroshima Transportation Museum to the north of the city, which ended up disappointingly having only miniature trains, planes and automobiles. The Library was just that a public library filled entirely of Manga (comics). A treat for me!

We departed from Hiroshima Port on a ferry destined for Matsuyama at 5pm.

When we arrived at Matsuyama Port, we were forced to take a taxi. Luckily Sarah was able to convey, after some intense discussion, that we wanted to go to Dogo.

2800 Yen later, we were outside of Dogo Onsen, the oldest onsen in Japan. It took us some time to gain our bearings, but after a steep climb in the dark, we arrived at our most unique accommodations yet, Matsuyama Youth Hostel, for some well deserved rest.