To the Hells!

As we were unable to take yesterday as a lazy day, today started out later than usual (11am).

Having been in the city once with Stacey, I knew that Beppu was famous for its onsens (hot spring baths), but having done that yesterday, we were looking for something else to do.

Sarah had read some unflattering reviews about the Jigoku Meguri (The Hells Tour), but as that appeared to be the only other real attraction to see, we grabbed a bus and headed for the Kannawa Area.

In order to attract more tourists, some of the Hells have added exploitive themes, such as aquariums, zoos and tacky statues. This exploitation was the reason for many of the poor reviews. But when you only have a few hours before your next train, tacky and explotive work!

We began our tour at Shiraike-Jigoku (White Pond Hell) which had the strongest Sulphur smell to it. This is could also be known as the Fish Hell, as its added theme was some aquariums containing Purana and other fish.

Next was the Oniyama-Jigoku, where the forced steam from the spring is enough to pull 1 1/2 train cars. This Hell is also the "happy" home of a variety of alligators and crocodiles. Yeah they were happy alright.

Kamado-Jigoku provided a red demon mascot for pictures and a hot footbath for our tired feet.

The confined and poorly kept animals at Yama-Jigoku, over shadowed the actual beauty of the Jigoku. We caught the lone elephant swaying back and forth, dancing for snacks from visitors. This was the most disturbing Hell we visited.

On the other hand, Umi-Jigoku was the nicest Hell. The 200 meter deep cobalt-blue boiling pond was surrounded by blooming gardens and had a small shrine off to the side.

The final stop on our walking tour (6 of 8 Hells) was at the the bubbling gray mud ponds of Oniishibozu-Jigoku.

With a couple of hours until the train, we decide to make our way down from the Hells to the Hyoutan Onsen for a sand bath. After a brief detour (ok we missed the unmarked street, we were supposed to turn down), we arrived at the onsen, deserving of a hot bath. The sand baths are uni-sex, so Sarah and I were able to muddle through it together. Thankfully we were alone. For the uneducated, a sand bath consists of digging pit deep enough into the sand, in order to cover yourself from neck to toe with very warm/hot sand. After that 15 minute experience and a vigorous shack down, we split up for a regular bath, outside while it began to shower.

The train from Beppu to Fukouka/Hakata was only three cars long and of course the car we were assigned to had a heating issue. After a half hour nap, I woke up soaked. Unbearable, I eventually was able to communicate with the conductor and he made an adjustment, however I spent the majority of the trip in another car.

The Japanese Ryokan Kashima Honkan, a traditonal Japanese hotel, was a welcome change for our last evening in Japan.